Craftsman snowblower carburetor

Anyway to fix a bent impeller shaft on a 80s sears craftsman snowblower. It does not appear to be that bad however it definitely has some major wobble to it when spun.. Seems to be just the tip of the shaft possibly from heating to get the old pulley removed, any suggestions on how i can repair this without replacing the entire assembly.

I acquired a Craftsman riding mower. It was used for only a short time, and then left outside in the weather for close to two years. So far, I have been unable to get it back in shape. Here's what I have done to it so far...

1. Drained and refilled the gas.
2. New spark plug, properly gapped.
3. New battery.
4. New coil. I also used a wire brush to clean the rotor and magnet. I bought a spark detector and put it inline with the spark plug. It does not light up, but I also have no proof that the detector is not bad.
5. New air filter.
6. Replaced the carburetor. I've sprayed starter fluid in the carb.

The engine turns over but does not catch. My theory is that I messed up the coil or spark plug somehow. I am not sure how to prove this.
I bought new oil and a new filter, but I have not changed the oil yet since I can't start the mower to get it warm. The oil level is good and the oil actually looks very clean.
I would appreciate any advice on next steps.
Edit: If it helps, the engine is a 33r777 Briggs and Stratton 18.5 HP.

Hello,
I have this old craftsman lawnmower. 7.25 hp, rear drive, push mower (ez-walk) that’s about 10 years old or so. It hasn’t gotten a whole lot of use, it was my late fathers. I got it from him not long before he passed. Anyways, it had some issues which I fixed - replaced carburetor, drive belt, spark plug, drive cable.
One issue which persists and drives me absolutely nuts, is that once you’ve started it after being cold (it starts super easy, runs smooth as butter), you roll the dice as to whether it’s going to start again after it ran for a while. So I’m short, hot engine won’t start again. I have to let it sit for 10-15 min, then begrudgingly it starts again. WTH?! I’m so frustrated I wanna just put it at the curb since it’s garbage day tomorrow. I don’t remember if it had points or electronic ignition, but my money is on electronic.
Does anyone have a clue as to why it’s behaving this way?
https://imgur.com/a/BhLf5Qy

When you can finally step back and say "I've gone through it, and it's ready for the season".
My neighbor's son bought her a tractor when hers died. It's a 2003 Craftsman LT1000; she's been mowing my yard since I moved here so I don't mind setting it up for her. Here's what I did:
The two issues it had were the mower blades would stall in medium-deep grass and it would only run for about 5 minutes and then shut off. As per the blade stalling problem I found the mower clutch cable all gnarbled up and the belt that was on it was wrong (5/8 thick and too long). The stalling problem turned out to be the carburetor solenoid. So, I replaced:

1. The mower clutch cable
2. The mower belt
3. The right front tire (it was leaking through the sidewall)
4. The carb solenoid
5. The oil filter
6. The fuel filter
7. 6 hitch pins, 3 springs and a washer on the mower deck
8. The spark plug

I also:

1. Sharpened the blades
2. Power washed the deck
3. Set the tire pressures
4. Greased everything that takes grease
5. Inspected the air filter - it was fine
6. Inspected the drive belt - also fine

So yeah...ready for the season!
​
edit: Aaand...the mower deck is bent. But that's ok; 8 shockingly large shim washers later and the blades are the same height and "parallel". It really does make a nice cut! She's so psyched she's tooling around mowing everything over again.

I have owned my Craftsman rear tine tiller for almost 20 years. It's a Briggs and Stratton engine 5.5hp, Model 134402, Type 1120 E1, Code 981030YB.
I am having trouble getting it to turn over. I have replaced the spark plug, cleaned the fuel tank, installed a fuel filter, cleaned the carburetor, and installed new gaskets. I have also changed the oil but I feel like I may have added too much. I can get compression and but the engine will not turn over. My question is what else might it be? I almost feel like the fuel filter I added was not necessary but the small screen in the tank has long been gone. I am almost at a loss for ideas.

I cleaned my riding mower (craftsman yt300) carburetor and changed the oil after starting it for the first time in the season and getting big puffs of white smoke coming out of it. I got it all out back together and tried to start it only to have it struggle to turn over. I took off the engine cover and turned the motor manually only to hear and see gasoline bringing forced out of the carburetor on every turn. Now the new oil smells like gas again and I'm thinking i missed something. Did I miss something putting the carb back together? Is this some other problem that may be causing my issues?

Hi folks, new to channel and first time post. I have a Craftsman mower with a B&S engine. It starts and then dies. Some have suggested carburetor issue and that cleaning carburetor out will solve the issue. Does this ring true to you?

This snowblower was given to me last fall. I was running no ethanol gas and some Startron fuel treatment through it to put it away for the warm months. I never use ethanol gas in my small engines but the person that gave me this snowblower does and I have a feeling the gas sat in it for a while. Is this rough idle the carburetor going bad or gummed up? What should I do to fix it and service it for the warm months so it’s ready to use this winter?

I need to pick up a new belt for my snowblower auger. Where’s the best place to go looking for one?
I have craftsman bought through sears if that makes any difference!

I have a 6.5 craftsman push mower with briggs and stratton motor. It didn't run so I bought a new carb for it and put it on and it mowed well for about 45 min, then it died. When I prime it, it runs but then immediately dies. I checked my brand new carburetor for any kind of blockage but there was none. Any ideas?

UPDATE: Was overtensioned and had to slack off the auger throttle.
Hey folks, I have a craftsman 13HP 27” cut snowblower. I replaced both the auger and the drive belts and now the auger spins as soon as I start the snowblower and doesn’t stop until I shut it off, regardless of whether the handle is engaged or disengaged. Any suggestions?

Recently purchased an older Craftsman LTX1000. The old halogen bulbs are, well, not good. Its likely I'll be using this tractor at night given it has a snowblower attachment, and I'd rather have some better light output.
I'm not sure if it is AC or DC, if there are voltage spikes at the moment, and whether or not more thinking needs to go into simply swapping to LED bulbs over the halogen. Any recommendation?

Here are some ways to put away your snow blower for the summertime. It is easy to follow these instructions to store your machine properly.
Method 1: The first method requires using fuel stabilizer. You can use STABLE or any other brand, and just simply flip it over follow the instructions, and put it in your fuel tank. Take the cap off, squeeze the bottle, and put the right amount of stabilizer you want in your fuel tank. Now, you need to run your machine for a few minutes to make sure that the fuel with the stabilizer circulates all the way through to the carburetor. When you run your machine in your garage, you’d better open your doors so that the exhaust fumes can ventilate.
Method 2: The second method all you need to do is to run your machine till runs out of the fuel that way. There is not going to be any fuel left in the fuel tank or the carburetor to go back throughout the summertime. Now if you find you have too much fuel in your gas tank to let it run that long, you can always remove the fuel line and drain the fuel, then hook it back up and let it run dry till the gas and the carburetor is all burned up. For home users, you can use a baster to reach in, suck out the fuel and dump it into another container until the gas tank is empty. Running stuff dry fuel may be the best method, because there is absolutely nothing left in there to go bad.
Method 3: So now that we have taken care of the fuel issues when storing your snowblower, you need to remove the spark plug and spray some engine storage spray in the cylinder or some engine fog or it will do the same thing. What the spray is good for is to help prevent rust and corrosion inside your cylinder. Now make sure the spark plug cap is not over the spark plug hole, then just turn the motor over a couple times slowly and reinstall your spark plug.
Method 4: Sometimes when you put away your equipment and some manuals will recommend that you pull the cord over until you feel that the piston is at top dead center where you feel the most compression. So you need to pull it over until you feel the most compression then stop it there.
If you do not put away your snow blower like these methods, it does not mean that it is not going to run. But it is always better to put it away properly and a bit of preventive maintenance can save you a lot of money down the road.

Here are some ways to put away your snow blower for the summertime. It is easy to follow these instructions to store your machine properly.
Method 1: The first method requires using fuel stabilizer. You can use STABLE or any other brand, and just simply flip it over follow the instructions, and put it in your fuel tank. Take the cap off, squeeze the bottle, and put the right amount of stabilizer you want in your fuel tank. Now, you need to run your machine for a few minutes to make sure that the fuel with the stabilizer circulates all the way through to the carburetor. When you run your machine in your garage, you’d better open your doors so that the exhaust fumes can ventilate.
Method 2: The second method all you need to do is to run your machine till runs out of the fuel that way. There is not going to be any fuel left in the fuel tank or the carburetor to go back throughout the summertime. Now if you find you have too much fuel in your gas tank to let it run that long, you can always remove the fuel line and drain the fuel, then hook it back up and let it run dry till the gas and the carburetor is all burned up. For home users, you can use a baster to reach in, suck out the fuel and dump it into another container until the gas tank is empty. Running stuff dry fuel may be the best method, because there is absolutely nothing left in there to go bad.
Method 3: So now that we have taken care of the fuel issues when storing your snowblower, you need to remove the spark plug and spray some engine storage spray in the cylinder or some engine fog or it will do the same thing. What the spray is good for is to help prevent rust and corrosion inside your cylinder. Now make sure the spark plug cap is not over the spark plug hole, then just turn the motor over a couple times slowly and reinstall your spark plug.
Method 4: Sometimes when you put away your equipment and some manuals will recommend that you pull the cord over until you feel that the piston is at top dead center where you feel the most compression. So you need to pull it over until you feel the most compression then stop it there.
If you do not put away your snow blower like these methods, it does not mean that it is not going to run. But it is always better to put it away properly and a bit of preventive maintenance can save you a lot of money down the road.