Miracle gro potting soil costco

Newbie houseplant enthusiast here! I have some small vine-like plants that I don’t want to hang, and I have been looking at taller, skinny pots for these. Though from my research you don’t want too much soil for the size of the plant, so my question is what to fill the bottom of these large pots with to avoid stuffing the whole thing with soil. I was thinking some of those lava rocks from the garden store? Or are there better options?

My dad planted an acorn from a Bur Oak. I would like to plant it in the ground. So here are my questions. I live in North Texas. It’s already getting pretty warm here. Would it be best to keep it potted till next fall or would it be ok to plant now? If I wait, I will move it to a bigger planter. Also as you can see in the pics the tree has split into two trunks very close to the soil line. Would it be better to cut one side off and train one main trunk upward? Will that split near the ground be a problem in the future? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

My husband grows in coco. He's had three grows so he's still a noob.He won a clone in a contest and got it in the mail and all we had was miracle grow. He's kicking himself in the ass for planting it in it but it had already spent three days at the post office. He can't use any of his advanced nutrients on it because it's in it and it has just turned into a pia. Will it kill the clone to take it out of the soil and put it into coco? It's about a month old. Thank you in advance. Any ideas appreciated

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Hi everyone,
I'm currently raising an L2 Dynastes tityus (his name is beenie weenie) and was curious on how to best keep flake soil at a good moisture level?
I understand that when you feel the soil you should be able to squeeze it without it dripping water and without it crumbling, so it needs to retain it's shape. In the case of it getting too dry what's the most efficient way of returning proper moisture to a large pot of dirt?
I understand that question may sound dumb but I'm actually just wondering if I poor a little water on the top will it just funnel down evenly? My main concern is the bottom or top becoming moist but having random dry spots. I guess I could just mix it around to double check. The only reason I'm concerned is because he's getting to a size where the container is significantly larger and there's more room for error.

Pics - May 24
Pics - May 30
Pics - May 31
1st time growing, gorrila glue in fox farms happy frog soil. I know I didn't research enough initially and planted directly in a 5 gal pot, it sprouted 34 days ago, it's been on 16/8 light schedule after about a week or so from sprouting and was looking fine up until this past week.
I've been really cautious with watering because the pot it was in was too big and I didn't want it to get too wet and damp while it's doesn't have the root system to use up that water. I was ramping up how much water I was giving for each watering over the weeks after trying to verify it was dry enough using a probe. Was watering roughly every 2-3 days. I (foolishly I think) started trying to add nutrients last week (2 feedings, then the next back to just water) and may have started a nutrient burn since the soil is probably enough for now - I think that's what's happening on the lowest leaves at least. Now the top leaves are curling a bit upward and the tips/edges browning/yellowing slightly, the veins are looking odd to me as well but I don't really know what I'm looking at tbh.
I raised the light up to about 1.5-2ft above it, was at about 1ft before. The temp has been pretty consistently average around 23c(73f) and rh about 50% the entire time. I haven't watered it for 4 days now, wanted to make sure it properly is drying out then my plan was to try and flush it or something but I'm pretty lost with the multiple symptoms now.
Anyone have an opinion on what I need to be doing to get this back on track?

Like the title states, im curious how often others are watering their plants and how much. I know not everyone grows the same way or same setup, but this could be a good post for beginners to help them have a better idea on how to prevent overwatering on their own plants
Im currently growing indoors in NLS living soil in 5 gal fabric pots. Coming to the end of week 4/ start of week 5. Ive been watering almost everyday at the same time (when the lights come on) with a very small amount of water at the start and have been slowly increasing the amount as the plants grow. I use how dry the soil is when the lights come to determine if i need to increase the water amount.
Week 1 - 3-4 oz (100-125 ml) everyday focused more around the edge of the pot vs right where the stem is
Week 2 - 4-8 oz (125-250 ml) everyday and just making sure the top of the soil is saturated. The plants with more growth getting more water.
Week 3 - 10-20 oz (300-600ml) everyday and same as week 2, saturating the top of the soil and giving more water to the plants with most growth
Week 4 - 30-35 oz ( roughly 1L) everyday with next to no runoff still, and if the plant does have a tiny bit of runoff ill give a bit less water the next day.
This has been working for me and i havent had any issues with overwatering, and I know it wont be the case for everyone.
Let me know how you water and what works best for you?

After transplanting into auto pot I gave them a feed of 500ml ph water with Cx holticulture line nutes then the second day gave another 500ml of superthrive feed ph’ed but the soil isn’t drying up? The seem to be growing a few cm and new growth but why isn’t soil drying up are the not eating?

Hello bonchi!
We want to hear from you!
We will rotate this topic monthly occasionally depending on the response. The information gathered in these threads will be used to formulate the wiki page so this is your chance to contribute.
NEW: The previous topics covered can now be found in the drop down Wiki menu at the top of the sub for desktop users or in the Community info tab for mobile users.
Previous topics can be found here:
Starting a bonchi: https://www.reddit.com/Bonchi/comments/s6ygk2/how_to_start_a_bonchi_comic_strip/
Pots and soil: https://www.reddit.com/Bonchi/comments/tqg7ge/topic_of_the_month_pots_and_soil_what_are_you/
Fertilizer & Nutrients: https://www.reddit.com/Bonchi/comments/ugq1lb/topic_of_the_month_what_type_of_fertilizer_o
Species and Varieties for Bonchi:
https://www.reddit.com/Bonchi/comments/w4go3w/topic_of_the_month_what_are_your_favourite/
Overwintering hot peppers vs. Bonchi, what's the difference?
https://www.reddit.com/Bonchi/comments/yxt5tv/topic_of_the_month_overwintering_hot_peppers_vs/

For this month let's talk: Styling and Development Techniques

Both bonchi and traditional bonsai are styled using a few basic techniques, mainly pruning, commonly referred to as clip and grow, and wiring.
The goal is to use these techniques to direct and manipulate the growth of the plant into the desired aesthetic.
Styling and intentional development is one of major differences between a plant in a pot and a bonsai.

Styling Techniques:

Pruning:

Pruning is a necessary procedure in maintaining and developing almost any bonsai. Pruning usually falls into two categories, maintenance pruning, which is used to maintain and improve the shape of the bonsai, and structural pruning which is generally more intensive and involves removing major portions of the tree for the purposes of shaping and branch selection.
Anytime you prune your bonchi it should be done with a specific purpose such as maintenance, refinement, or development. Unless you have a specific reason for pruning your bonchi is better left alone to grow and flourish. Pruning for the sake of pruning, or boredom pruning is never a good idea.

Clip and Grow:

Clip and grow is a styling/development method that involves letting the plant grow out before pruning back to a node and allowing it to grow out again before repeating. Some refer to this as “directional pruning”
This creates a very natural look as the new growth will emerge at a slightly different direction from the previous growth which leads to very natural looking movement and gradual taper. Both are considered very desirable in bonsai.
How it works:
Select the branch or trunk section you want to develop and identify a node, usually found at the base of a leaf, that is facing in the direction that you want the new growth to emerge.
Pruning back to the selected node, leaving a few cm for branch die back.
Allow the branch to sprout new growth and grow out before repeating the process. Repeated clip and grow will result in gradual movement and taper, which generally makes a tree more interesting and desirable.
When it comes to bonchi, clip and grow is usually the most practical and successful styling method as it is nearly always successful compared to wiring. Pepper plants quickly reach a point where they are no longer flexible enough for wiring. However clip and grow can still be performed on inflexible portions of the plant.
Here is some great info about clip and grow styling from Bonsai Empire: https://www.bonsaiempire.com/blog/grow-clip

Wiring:

Wiring involves wrapping a section of the tree in copper or aluminium wire and then bending the section into the desired shape. Over time the branch will harden allowing you to remove the wire while retaining the shape you bent the branch into.
This technique allows you to add more drastic movement to a section of the branch as you are only limited by the breaking point of the tree. It can also be quicker than clip and grow because you can style an entire branch at one time without waiting for each section to grow out. Unlike clip and grow, wiring does not increase taper.
Wiring does not always work well for pepper plants. It is absolutely possible , but is not always as successful. Older hardened growth tends to be inflexible and any amount of bending will results in a broken branch. Younger green sections of the plant can be bent, however this growth is very tender and even the act of applying the wire can be too much stress.
Personally, nearly every section I have ever wired on a bonchi has suffered. But this might say more about my skills than the technique itself.
Tips for wiring bonchi:

1. Use thin wire to avoid overworking the branches. Wire about ⅓ the thickness of the branch works well.
2. Only apply wire to flexible green sections of the plant, other sections are not flexible enough. Test the section by manipulating it with your fingers before you try bending with wire to make sure it's soft enough. If you have a piece of the plant you previously removed try bending it in your hand until it breaks, this will give you an idea of how far you can safely bend the material.
3. Apply gradual movement and consider using a combination of clip and grow and wiring to get the to your desired shape.
4. Wiring is not a one a done method. It may take several rounds of wiring to get your tree where you want it to be. You may only be able to manipulate a small portion of a tree or branch at a time.
5. Remove the wire as soon as you notice its starting to bite into the branch.

Here is good info about wiring bonsai from Bonsai Empire:
https://www.bonsaiempire.com/basics/styling/wiring

Guy Wires:

Guy wiring is a technique that involves using wire or rope anchored to two points to bend a branch downward.
Usually one end is attached to the end of the branch you want to bend, and the other is anchored to a secure point such as the pot, a strong root, or a thick stronger branch. For a bonchi, its best to anchor your guy wire to the pot itself since pepper plants are more delicate than actual trees.
Guy wiring works on thicker sturdier portions of the plant that are too rigid for wiring.
How it works:

1. Choose the branch you want to bend, test its flexibility with your hands to see if it can be bent without breaking.
2. Anchor a piece of wire to the end of the section you want to bend. Make sure the anchor point is strong enough to avoid breaking. It can be helpful to wrap the wire in tape or plastic/rubber tubing at the anchor point to reduce the chances of the wire digging into the branch.
3. Gently tug the wire in the direction you want to bend the branch to determine where you need to anchor the other end and how far you can bend the branch.
4. Select an anchor point and fasten the other end of the wire to the anchor point.
5. For strong trees and shrubs you may need to use pliers to twist and tighten to wire, but for bonchi you can simply pull the wire with your hands into position and fasten the other end to secure it.

Here is some good information about guy wiring from Bonsai Empire:
https://www.bonsaiempire.com/basics/styling/wiring#:~:text=Guy%2Dwires,a%20thin%20(1mm)%20wire%20wire).
Let's hear from you!
How are you styling your bonchi?
Have you had success or failure with any of the techniques above?
What season are you doing most of your styling?
Is there anything I missed about styling a bonchi?
What topic would you like covered next?