Toyota oil drain plug torque specs

Minivan Time

2023.05.31 16:52 Minkalink4 Minivan Time

Got a Model Y recently to replace my crummy burning 5 quarts of oil between oil changes commuter sedan. Love it! We have solar too.
Third kiddo on the way. Minivan time is coming very soon. Wife would mostly be driving it. She commutes daily to work roundtrip 10 miles and weekend trips this would be the family mover (probably 15k miles per year).
Seems like brand new you can get the PHEV Pacifica plug-in with around 30 miles plug in electric, but (and a big but) it’s a Chrysler. Big waitlist as well.
You can also get the Toyota Sienna, which is a hybrid and 36 mpg, but Toyota stealerships around here are marking up at least for $4k. Humongous waitlist, low supply.
Honda Oydussey and Kia Carnival get around 20 mpg so not ideal, but seem like great vehicles.
I’m wondering what strategy you all have done who have gone the minivan route. New or used? The new ones have so many great safety and comfort features, plus the $7500 write off for the Pacifica.
Part of me also wonder if maybe we should get an old used one and beat the heck out of it with this wacko market. Saw a 2014 Sienna with 85k miles for $25k. Slightly used Siennas basically going for the price of new ones.
Anyways, any advice appreciated!
submitted by Minkalink4 to TeslaModelY [link] [comments]

2023.05.31 16:06 Locus-Coeruleus X1 Carbon Gen 11 - initial thoughts

Got the X1 carbon gen 11 (upgrade from Gen 6) with the following spec highlights:
price USD $1,294.20 after coupon, code and $100 amex and $100 cap1 cashback stacking which should hopefully work. If the cb doesn't work it'll be $1494.20 + tax. These don't seem to be selling like hot cakes as I got mine in < 1 week for a custom built shipped from China! I suspect the prices will fall another few hundred over the next few months or by black friday.
BATTERY Once all the windows and lenovo updates were done and apps installed (while plugged in), I took it off the charger around 4p and put the computer to sleep at 10p sporadically using it for web surfing and some minimal video playback. Note this wasn't non-stop use. The laptop has computer vision, so it seems to lock the pc and goto sleep mode when I walk away from it and pops right back up when I come back (maybe 1-2 seconds wake time almost at par with macbook pro). Last night at 10p, it was at 41% and this morning when I turned it on it was at 39% (so 2% drain overnight ~10hrs). Note overnight it went to deep sleep, so there was a short delay maybe 5-10 seconds for it to return back to login screen (versus macbook pro is usually instantaneous).
Subjectively, the macbook with apple silicon seems to last much longer over a full charge. I suspect the x1 with oled and intel chip will not last a full 8 hours even with a dark background and brightness down, though perhaps 4-6 hours is a more reasonable estimate with just light web surfing / office apps. Now with movies with HDDolby Vision and brightness turned up expect the battery to barely last the movie (I haven't tested this yet, tho).
Weight Love it, so much lighter than the macbook pro. The weight is similar to my x1 carbon gen 6, not surprisingly and feels lighter than the t14s gen 3 and at par for the x13s, though the screen is bigger and the built for the carbon feels more premium than the cheap(er) built for the t14s.
OLED Love it! Dolby Vision works after you install the dolby vision extensions. youtube 4k hdr works and looks gorgeous!
5g wwan Love it! I use both e-sim and sim. Tmobile is via e-sim and AT&T is with a physical sim card. Note - you need to manually switch between the e-sim and sim. I can't figure out a way for it to automatically switch to "the better connection"
Computer Vision This was a pleasant surprise for me. It's my first time using this. Basically, it locks the computer when you walk away and turns it back on when you come in front of it and works surprisingly well. I was going to turn it off, but glad I tried it and plan to keep it on.
SUMMARY For a thin and light travel laptop with a gorgeous screen and dual 5g connectivity that is fast though with mediocre battery life.
submitted by Locus-Coeruleus to Lenovo [link] [comments]


Toyota has long had an image of quiet sensibleness about it. They used to be the sort of car bought by those who prioritise reliability above all else, and for whom excitement is anathema. That has begun to change, and not just in the fire-breathing GR models. Outgoing Toyota CEO Akio Toyoda (grandson of the company founder) is a car nut to his fingertips, and waged a long campaign to make his family company’s products more exciting to drive, and to look at.

The once-bland Corolla has been a major part of that plan, relaunched in 2019 with sharper styling and a more invigorating driving experience. Now, for 2023, it’s getting a facelift (of the most minor sort) and an upgrade to its hybrid powertrain. Does that make it a more interesting prospect still, or is Toyota once again playing it safe?

Exterior design and rivals
If you can line up the outgoing Corolla and the new side by side and spot all the differences, you’ll probably win a Toyota-branded anorak. The updated Corolla looks all-but identical to the outgoing one, with only the front bumper, the internal bits of the head- and tail-lights and the back bumper actually new. There are some updated alloy wheel designs, admittedly, and a couple of new paint options including the handsome new ‘Juniper Blue’ finish pictured here.

For all its familiarity. the Corolla remains a smart looking car. It can even look enticingly sporty at times, especially in estate form, and especially in the more overt GR Sport trim (not to be confused with the actual GR Corolla hot hatch that British buyers are still denied). The blandness of previous models has been thoroughly banished, and the Corolla is much the better for it.

Will that be enough to give the Corolla more kerbside and showroom appeal than the new Honda Civic, or the venerable Volkswagen Golf? Perhaps — impressive though the new Civic is, it is a very conservatively-styled car on the outside, while the droopy-nosed eighth-generation Golf is looking tired already, unless you get a sporty model such as the GTI.

Hyundai’s handsome i30 Fastback is arguably the Corolla’s sharpest looking rival, although it currently lacks any kind of hybrid or plug-in hybrid option, while the Skoda Octavia provides a strong contest, as not only is it quietly handsome on the outside, it’s significantly more spacious than the Corolla inside.

Interior and practicality
Toyota has made more meaningful changes to the Corolla’s interior, but those changes come under the heading of technology, so we’ll cover those below. Elsewhere, the overall shapes and styling are the same as before, and so too are the exceptional quality levels — the Corolla remains a car able to put much more expensive models to shame with its cabin quality.

It’s far from the roomiest car around, though. While the front seats are very comfortable and supportive, and the driving position good, the high centre console and the way the dashboard design juts outward above your knees makes the car feel a touch cramped, especially if you’re tall.

There’s also a lack of storage space. The box under the front armrest, the door bins and the little shelf in front of the gear lever (which is optionally occupied by a wireless phone charger) are all a bit small, so there isn’t quite enough room for all your keys, wallets, water bottles and so on.

In the five-door hatchback there’s simply not enough legroom for one tall adult to sit behind another. If you’re going to accommodate anyone over the age of 13 in the back seats, the driver and front passenger are going to have to slide their seats forward. Headroom is also less than generous.

The boot isn’t much better. Even Toyota people will admit that the 361-litre boot is less than class leading, some 20 litres shy of the Golf’s and hundreds of litres smaller than a Skoda Octavia’s. The only upside is that the Toyota’s boot is roomier or at least as roomy as some plug-in hybrid rivals — such as the Vauxhall Astra.

You’d be much better off in the Corolla Touring Sports estate. This sits on a structure with the front and rear wheels pushed apart by 10cm and which offers rear space that, if not exactly generous, is at least adequate.

The Touring Sport’s boot is more useful, too — at 598 litres up to the luggage cover it’s not the biggest in the class, but it’s more than enough for most purposes. Fold the estate’s back seats flat (disappointingly, they only split 60:40, compared to the 40:20:40 of the Peugeot 308 SW) and you’ve got 1,606 litres of load space.

Technology and safety
The new 12.3in digital driver’s display is a welcome replacement for the previous mixed analogue and digital instrument panel, which looked tired and old even when it was new.

The new digital screen is much sharper, and while you’ll have to submit to a somewhat confusing settings menu to alter the layout, you can at least do so. The graphics look crisp, too.

A dramatic backlit side view of the Corolla pops up as you switch driving modes.

In the centre of the dash is a new 10.5in touchscreen infotainment system, which is a massive improvement on that of the outgoing Corolla.

Its graphics are bang up to date, and its menu layout is significantly more simple and logical. Toyota has helpfully retained physical stereo volume buttons, as well as separate physical heating and ventilation controls, which makes life much easier and safer on the move.

The screen includes a cloud-based navigation system that can give you live traffic advice, but which can be a touch laggy and slip behind the physical position of the car if you’re in an area of low mobile reception.

The Corolla now has a built-in antenna for internet connectivity, though, which powers that cloud-based nav, and which is free to use for the first four years of ownership. It also enables connection to your mobile phone through an app, which allows you to monitor the car’s various functions, flash the lights in a busy car park so that you can find it and remotely start the climate control so that you can cool the car down, or defrost it, before leaving the house.

The app, called MyT, also includes hybrid driving tips for anyone new to part-battery driving.

The Corolla already had a full five-star rating from Euro NCAP when it comes to crash safety, but Toyota has updated and upgraded the electronic safety kit under the name T-Mate. That upgrade includes a new forward-facing camera and radar that are claimed to be more effective than before, and which give the Corolla standard-fit adaptive cruise control.

The camera also allows for a new system called Proactive Driving Assist (PDA) — while this has some familiar functions such as collision warnings, it also includes a new active braking system that automatically ramps up the amount of energy recovered back into the battery when you lift off the accelerator while approaching a corner or when there’s a slower moving car in front.

It’s not quite ‘one-pedal’ driving, but it’s quite a useful and intuitive system that is backed up by a new active steering assistant that can help you swerve away from danger in an extreme situation.

Optionally, you can fit your Corolla with a blind-spot monitor and a rear cross-traffic alert, and with these systems comes an extra one — Safe Exit Assist, which warns you if you’re about to open a door into the path of an oncoming cyclist. It only works on the front doors, though, and unlike Hyundai’s system — which will actually inhibit the door latch to stop you opening it — the Corolla just has a flashing light and a warning beep.

Performance, power output and acceleration
While the engine capacity of the basic 1.8-litre Corolla hybrid has remained the same, Toyota says that has been significantly upgraded as part of its new fifth-generation hybrid setup. For the 1.8, that means a new, more efficient, lithium-ion battery and a more powerful — 94bhp and 136lb ft of torque — electric motor, as well as a new computer brain.

The effect of all that is higher peak power — 138bhp now, up from 121bhp previously — and the same or better efficiency.

The 2-litre version also gets more power — it’s now up to 193bhp — and it’s slightly lighter than before as it has switched from a nickel metal hydride battery to a lithium-ion pack.

The 1.8 version arguably makes the 2-litre model redundant, as its extra power is really only noticeable under hard acceleration and that’s just not how you drive a Corolla hybrid. Much better to accelerate relatively gently, and let the improved electric motor do more of the work.

Do that and you’ll not only save fuel (55mpg is easy, beyond 60mpg is certainly possible), but you’ll also save your ears. Toyota has worked hard — and largely successfully — over the years to remove from its hybrids the high-revving noise when accelerating, and it’s certainly noticeable that the Corolla spends less time grinding away at high rpm to gather speed on the motorway. Long uphill runs are not its friend, but noise levels are rarely excessive in day-to-day driving.

The extra power on offer has given the Corolla swifter 0-62mph times — 9.1 seconds for the 1.8, 7.4 seconds for the 2-litre, but you’ll need to be in Sport mode if you want to feel the system at its highest performing. In the more likely event that you’re driving in Normal or Eco modes, the Corolla’s hybrid engine just rows along nicely, if unspectacularly.

It’s certainly more noticeable how much more of the work is done by the electric motor than before. Not so long ago, you had to drive any Toyota hybrid with exceptional care to keep it running on electric power – as indicated by a little “EV” icon in the instruments. Now, you can accelerate quite decisively, and get well above 30mph before the petrol engine wakes up.

Toyota reckons that as much as 80 per cent of urban journeys in a Corolla can be done on just electric power, which is impressive if it can be replicated (we scored an apparent 50 per cent electric ratio on our mixed country road, motorway and town drive if the dashboard display is to be believed).

Ride and handling
In 2019, the Corolla was almost shocking in how nice it was to drive. Previous generations had been pretty forgettable, but with this 12th generation, suddenly there was sharp steering and a willing, engaging chassis. That carries forward to the updated model.

Comfort is still clearly more of a priority than excitement. The Corolla rides firmly, but with a well-damped sense of comfort. It only gets harsh if you spec it up with the 18in alloy wheels of the GR Sport models. The mid-spec 17in wheels are perfectly fine when it comes to comfort, although all Corolla models seem to suffer from too much tyre roar on coarse tarmac, which does spoil the refinement.

The steering is light but very fluid in feel and quite quick across its locks. The Corolla also seems to have plenty of front-end grip in reserve, so tightening corners hold no great fears.

It’s not as sharp in its steering feel as say a Ford Focus or a Mazda3, but it’s certainly satisfying, and on a twisty mountain road it’s easy to get the Corolla into a pleasant and enjoyable rhythm, sweeping from corner to corner.

That Proactive Driving Assist also helps, as the extra bit of regenerative braking when approaching a bend can help you better balance the car on corner entry, so it’s as much a driving aid as a safety and energy-saving feature.

Pricing and on-sale date
The Corolla is on sale now and prices start from £30,210 for an Icon spec hatchback with the 1.8-litre hybrid engine. Standard spec for Icon models includes 16in alloys, LED headlights, the 12.3in digital instrument screen, the 10.5in infotainment system with online connectivity and cloud-based navigation, a wireless phone charger, keyless entry and ignition, two-zone air conditioning, a reversing camera, front and rear parking sensors and heated front seats.

If you want the 2-litre engine in Icon form, that’ll cost you £31,955 while the Touring Sports estate costs £31,545 with the 1.8 engine, or £33,290 as a 2-litre, both in Icon spec.

For £31,780 you can upgrade your 1.8 hatchback to Design spec, which comes with 17in machined-look alloy wheels, uprated LED headlights, rear privacy glass, auto-folding door mirrors, rain sensing wipers, ambient cabin lighting and a self-dimming rear-view mirror. A 2-litre hatch in Design spec costs £33,525, while the estate 1.8 Design is £33,115 and the 2-litre Design is £34,860.

Sporty-looking GR Sport spec starts from £32,990 for the 1.8 hatchback (£34,735 for the 2-litre and £34,705 or £36,450 for the 1.8 and 2-litre Touring Sports respectively). For that you get a chunky body kit with unique front and rear bumper designs, 18in dark grey alloys, black door mirror caps, red contrast stitching for the inside (along with embossed GR Sport logos) and the option of a contrast-colour roof.

At the top of the range is the Excel model, which will set you back £33,400 for the 1.8 hatch; £35,145 for the 2-litre hatch; £35,115 for the 1.8 estate; or £36,860 for the 2-litre estate. Standard Excel equipment includes 18in alloys, adaptive high-beam control, leather upholstery, a head-up display, blind-spot monitor, rear cross-traffic alert, safe exit assist and the option of a panoramic glass sunroof.

Verdict: Toyota Corolla Hybrid review
The fact that Toyota hasn’t changed the Corolla much is perhaps not very surprising. After all, in 2021, the 50 millionth Corolla was sold, underscoring the success of the model’s history of steady evolution rather than stunning revolution.

It remains a sensible choice, and the upgrades to the hybrid system are welcome both for the extra power and for the still-excellent economy. It’s no high-performance ball of fire but the Corolla is sharper and more rewarding to drive than you might expect. Given Toyota’s well-earned reputation for reliability, it should be a satisfying car to own in the long term.

Source: driving co
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2023.05.31 07:16 Baballega 2019+ Rav4 Maintenance Schedule

2019+ Rav4 Maintenance Schedule submitted by Baballega to rav4club [link] [comments]

2023.05.31 05:31 Mr_Bass69 Need Help Plugging Oil Sensor Hole on Predator 212

I'm currently building out a 212 non-hemi, and one of the first things I've done after having drained the oil was remove the oil sensor. Even though it's mainly going to be on a street kart, it is still annoying, so I want it gone. The problem I'm running into is plugging the hole where the cable-channel-bolt-thing was. I followed a RBG video, and he said to tap the hole to 7/16", use red thread lock, a 1" long x 7/16" bolt and a washer to plug it. But I just can't get the damn thing to accept the tap. I even bought a new carbon steel tap and die set from Harbor Freight. No luck. Tried using a drill with the 7/16" tap, also no luck.
However, I have a few ideas, 1: I use a slightly smaller bolt, maybe 3/8", pack it in with some JB weld and call it good. 2: I buy a stronger 7/16" tap and do it the "right" way. Or 3: I use the original bolt thing and use JB weld to encase the entire outside of the bolt to both lock it in and plug the hole where the wire feeds through (or maybe just use some JB in the wire hole and keep the whole assembly removable).
Please let me know what you guys think, and possibly provide some better ideas. Any and all help is appreciated!
View Poll
submitted by Mr_Bass69 to smallengines [link] [comments]

2023.05.31 05:00 CreamyGardenSnail My new to me 97 R33 GTS

My new to me 97 R33 GTS
Hey guys! I picked up a 97 R33 GTS with an RB20E with around 60,000 miles last weekend for a cool little daily cruiser that’s great on gas and reliable. Absolutely loving this thing it must get between 30-30mpg! Picked up a Cima earlier this year and just been addicted to the RHD game ever since.
The vehicle seems super super clean the frame rails look like it’s almost never been jacked up, interior is great minus one flaw and I mean for a 97 im damn happy with it.
Have a few questions hopefully will be able to get some help on,
  1. My drivers side window when going up gets a little tight and slows down / sometimes gets just I just have to give it a little help and it goes right up, is there something I can do to eliminate this? Grease the rails? Sign of bad window regulator?
  2. My passenger side rear tail light, the clear reverse in between the circles seems to have condensation in it, something I can reseal? Can just the center piece be replaced? Or is the entire tail light unit one piece?
  3. Was debating swapping out ignition coils during preventative maintanence, I was able to find the part number but it seems to almost be the same as 300Z N/A coils? Can anyone confirm or deny this?
  4. This is the current break down list I’ve come up with for the car to make it 100% although she’s already very clean and smooth Id rather just never worry about it again for a long time.
R33 Parts List
Thermostat - $35 Belts - $90 Water pump - $95 Coolant hoses - $124 Coolant sensor - $33 Oil pressure sensor - $125 Fuel pump -$122 Clean / new fuel injectors -$369?? Fuel filter - $30
Total parts : $654 W/O injectors $1,023 W / injectors
Alternator - $219 Starter - $160 Aluminum radiator - $300 Valve cover gasket - $23 Magnetic Nismo oil drain plug - $21 Ignition coils part # 22433 55S10 - $30ea-$83ea , $120-$332 total NGK spark plug cables - $150
Total parts - $993-$1,205
EXTRAS Coilovers - $1,000-$1,400 Enkei RPF1 - $1,000 Tires $89 each
Total - $2600-$3,000
  1. Any other parts or missing items you would recommend inspecting or replacing?
  2. The only interior cosmetic issue is my auto selector shift knob is a little cracked across the top, does anyone make a cover for them or replacement? Should I just look on Buyee for a used one in better shape? Not sure if it’s part of the whole shifter unit since it has overdrive and the parking release button on it.
  3. What are these worth in North America, USA? I tried to search across country before the purchase and wasn’t able to find many cheaper than what I paid, also most of them looked fairly beat, wondering if I overpaid or got a decent deal. I paid $14,500
Thanks for any help and knowledge totally new to the skyline / jdm game! 🤙🏼🥳
submitted by CreamyGardenSnail to SkyLine [link] [comments]

2023.05.31 04:28 KitchenAppearance6 help, would be appreciated.

Car backfires in idle randomly, no specific pattern. Drives great till I floor it and it backfires like crazy even shoots out flames. Only backfires when flooring it, a regular drive and gradually applying gas you wouldn’t even notice it. Car has been backfiring since December, since then I have done all of these changes⬇️
New Oil and Filter New oem plugs .032 gap New oem turbo New isr single exit exhaust New fuel pump and fuel filter AlphaSpeed tune 93 octane New air intake
Symptoms include⬇️ Oil consumption
Poor gas mileage 12mpg
Flashing Check engine light. Only appears when it backfires for a really long time, if i were to hold down the gas for a minute or so. No CEL, no codes at all, even tried it while it was flashing and nothing.
Torque meter on bk1 2.0t jitters up and down when the backfiring happens, seems to be linked to the backfiring
STOCK for the most part have not touched the engine at all.
submitted by KitchenAppearance6 to genesiscoupe [link] [comments]

2023.05.31 04:27 Cheshire_Mind_Works Odd engine shutoff when idling or stopping

97 Grand Caravan
Had this issue where if I was idling for too long the engine would shut off. Then it started doing it when I was either braking or not having my foot in the gas. Which is great given power steering also cuts out.
It had a thing where it would shut off while hitting the gas then turn back on. (Rare)
Got the oil changed and that kind of fixed things. But it was still having the issues.
Turned out I was having alternator problems and it finally gave out so replaced it with a new one.
Thought that fixed it.
When I first had the issue took it to O'reilly to use the sensor and it said it was completely clean. No codes nothing.
Months later when after changing the alternator and the oil again. There was a leak so had to redo the oil and change out the drain plug. But after it was running fine no issues and then it started doing the shut off thing again. Friend ran his reader on it and it came up with basically pressure. Checked the engine and found a big crack in the air intake tube. So we patched that up with jb weld and duct tape. Which worked for a few days.
Suddenly it starts doing the whole shut off thing.
When it does it. I'll start it and it'll die. Sometimes it'll turn back on and be fine. Or it'll die immediately. Or I'll be able to drive it a yard or so and it'll shut off when not hitting the gas or braking.
Here's the thing I've noticed though. It only really does it when I'm playing something through the radio.
Nothing being played through the radio and it seems to be fine. Haven't had any issues.
submitted by Cheshire_Mind_Works to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]

2023.05.31 01:07 izzlit 2009 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport

There is a used 2009 subaru impreza outback sport for sale at a dealership near me and it is a 1 owner vehicle, but it has 194,000 miles on it. However, it has had a few major repairs recently which would avoid having to fork over a bunch of money to a mechanic anytime soon. Timing Belt, Camshaft seals, Cylinder head gasket, Oil pressure sender Switch, Drain plug gasket, Water pump, Oil changes and more much more has been done to this vehicle. I am curious if it is worth buying. the asking price is $4995. i know subarus are known for needing head gasket repairs and it being expensive but i’m thinking since it’s already been done recently i could get a few years out of this vehicle with no major issues. let me know what y’all think, thanks
submitted by izzlit to UsedCars [link] [comments]

2023.05.31 00:34 CuteSloth42 Toyota corolla verso (2004) petrol 1.8 vvti 125hp : idle - rpm problem

Car: Toyota corolla verso (2004) petrol 1.8 vvti 125hp (engine: 1ZZ - FE) ~150000KM (~93205 Miles)
EDIT: No metallic noises or knocking noises
Everything i'm writing is what my dad told me, i never use the car (used to tho and i know what it was like when it was working) and never knew about any problem until yesterday when my mom couldn't drive back from work. The car in the last couple of months had all 4 spark plugs changed multiple times (they believe 3 times, maybe 4) and with the first spark plug change they also changed the ignition coils because the car started to rumble a lot and have power losses, it was only 125hp but it had way less power than what it used to have, after the first change it started to be smoother but still wasn't working as usual, less power and above 5000rpm it lost even more.
every few week spark plugs needed to be replaced because the car started running on 3 (and even 2) cylinders, after the plugs change it went back to that "working but not as it should", like i described above (my dad told me that with every change of plug it felt it had little bit less power).
my dad has an OBD2 reader and before each change of plugs he run it for errors and a this was the result:
Misfire on 1 cylinders once misfire on 2 cylinders the second time both solved changing spark plugs (again, the car was not fixed by any mean, it was running, drivable but it felt "dead")
the sparkplugs were oily and the ignition coils too, there were oily residues even inside the coils electric connector
the car always consumed a decent amount of oil but recently it consumed A LOT of it, to the point where it had to be topped off very very frequently, once a month or even twice.
now this is all he could tell me until what happened yesterday, my mom going to work had almost no power, she barely could drive an uphill portion of her commute, when stepping a bit on the gas pedal the car started making a low tone noise, like and air turbulence and both at idle and driving the car was vibrating, stepping on the gas made the car loose even more power and stepping lightly on it was the only way to drive the car (even doing that the car couldn't barely get to 50kmh (~31mph) and once at work she decided to leave the car at my grandparents home since they live close by, she then didn't feel like driving it back home and here's when she called me and i went to check on the car.
with a friend that knows about car waay more than i do (he regularly works on cars, older one tho)we changed the spark plugs again, topped of the oil and checked and changed the intake manifold gasket, checked the valve cover gasket and closed everything up to at least try and drive it home, it didn't work. when turning the engine on the car barely could idle (it stalled a couple of times) and it was pretty shaky, the rpm were not stable at all and with the OBD2 reader the engine did go as low as ~600 rpm it didn't have any error code tho and only a warning about an O2 sensor. When stepping on the gas pedal the car rpm were rising in a pretty unstable way up until 1500rpm then it up until 2000rpm it sounded a bit better (not good by any means) but it was a bit smoother and when going from 2000rpm to 3000rpm or stepping in general a bit more on the gas it started doing that growly low tone sound (best way i have to describe it is turbulent air).
Tomorrow i think i can give you even a live data reading from the OBD and a video to show/let you hear the problem but i decided to post to see if in the meantime someone can tell anything from what i wrote.
Thanks in advance and i hope we'll figure this out.
submitted by CuteSloth42 to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]

2023.05.30 22:21 No-Material-23 Today I learned that my oil drain plug is just the right size to plug the hole in my oil collector pan.

Today I learned that my oil drain plug is just the right size to plug the hole in my oil collector pan. submitted by No-Material-23 to Ducati [link] [comments]

2023.05.30 20:05 thecorrptedone HELP! Honda GCV160 wont stay running

So this all started at the beginning of spring when i tried to start my mower for the first time and got nothing. Did a full tune up, drained all fluids, cleaned carb, new gas, new oil, new spark plug, new air filter. NOTHING! Replaced carb entirely. It starts and runs, now we are getting somewhere. Start mowing and a few minutes later it dies. More research, check gas cap for clogged vent, seems fine, gas isn’t over filled. More research, drills hole in gas cap for more venting. Same result, buy new cap, again more of the same, starts, runs for a couple minutes and dies. Please help before I go drop a grand on an Ego.
submitted by thecorrptedone to smallengines [link] [comments]

2023.05.30 19:05 nosajh9 i just purchased a 2012 X base model

136k, this has the fb25 engine. paid $6100. changed the bushings and links for the stabilizers front and rear, also spark plugs, air filter, all fluids incl. atf and both front and rear diff. fluids. three drain and refills on the atf with oem subaru atf fluid. cleaned the sensors on the air box and changed out the pcv. thats about it. runs good, showing 23.7 mpg. this is after battery disconnects, so i'll see what happens with that. been checking oil, and i'm at 2800k and its bare barely budged, happy about that as i read these use oil, maybe it had the short block work done, carfax is vague about the repairs. so far so good, price the cam seals leak slightly on the left side, but valvoline maxlife seems to be slowing that down and no drips on the sensors up there, gonna leave it. any known issues with these?
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2023.05.30 17:53 NeighborhoodWarm6171 20,000 mile oil

I have an 07 Accord 2.4. Only was 189k miles. I’m thinking about using Mobil 1’s 20k mile/12 month oil and changing it every 10k miles with a decent 20k mile filter. I started using a magnetic drain plug too. Anybody use this oil or know of problems with it?
submitted by NeighborhoodWarm6171 to Cartalk [link] [comments]

2023.05.30 16:41 Boonsworth Identifying rattle sound

Identifying rattle sound
Hey guys. Car is an 07 e90 N54 at 130k. Makes this rattle noise around the OFHG.
It is RPM dependent. It is intermittent. It disappears here and there. It’s more often not present than present. After 1k rpm you can’t really hear it probably because it’s rattling so fast when it does show up.
Originally thought it’s HPFP (I am getting sort of difficult starts) plus it sounds similar to the rattle after people install an HPFP overdrive kit.
Car runs absolutely fine full power no hesitations no issues. No codes (besides 2AAF fuel pump plausibility usually due to stage 2 fuel pump which I have). No limp mode.
Just changed belt and tensioner + 2 idler pulleys. I’m going to pull belt off just now to see if it’s PS/AC/Alternator pulleys although alternator is new.
Did oil change just now. Zero metal/glitter. Drain plug magnet perfectly clean.
I hope it’s not the chain or rod knock.
submitted by Boonsworth to E90 [link] [comments]

2023.05.30 16:39 Boonsworth Identifying rattle sound

Identifying rattle sound
Hey guys. Car is an 07 e90 N54 at 130k. Makes this rattle noise around the OFHG.
It is RPM dependent
Originally thought it’s HPFP (I am getting sort of difficult starts) plus it sounds similar to the rattle after people install an HPFP overdrive kit.
Car runs absolutely fine full power no hesitations no issues. No codes (besides 2AAF fuel pump plausibility usually due to stage 2 fuel pump which I have). No limp mode.
Just changed belt and tensioner + 2 idler pulleys. I’m going to pull belt off just now to see if it’s PS/AC/Alternator pulleys although alternator is new.
Did oil change just now. Zero metal/glitter. Drain plug magnet perfectly clean.
I hope it’s not the chain or rod knock.
submitted by Boonsworth to E90 [link] [comments]

2023.05.30 16:35 NoSoulsINC My wife found out about my spontaneity prompts

So about 3-4 years ago my wife and I had a huge, near relationship ending, fight. It was mostly about how she feels I don’t care about her. I get busy during the day and I forget to text her for hours at a time, and when I do it’s the normal “how’s your day going” stuff.
So to fix this I made a list of 31 prompts or activities in my notes ranging from a simple “I love you and can’t wait to see you” to getting flowers or planning a picnic at the park to surprise her with. I set a reminder in my phone to go off every two days and I will use the prompt that matches the day of the month so it feels random and not like I’m repeating the same stuff. If I think of something new I’ll add it to the sub list and swap them around every few months.
This has worked out pretty well. It’s not that I don’t mean these things, but I just need a reminder to pull me out of work mode for a few minutes to check in on her without having to resort to the same boring and generic texts.
Fast forward to this weekend. I was doing some car maintenance, and I also have important information about the cars and a maintenance log in my notes as well, and while I was under the car i asked my wife to look at the notes and check the torque spec for a drain bolt. Naturally, she sees a note called “spontaneity prompts” and is curious so she opens that and sees a laundry list of romanticisms. She puts it together probably recognizing some of the things I’ve said to her that I’ve been using this to talk to her during the day.
She asks about it and I say I reference it from time to time when I want to do something nice/random to surprise her or when I feel like saying something non-generic over text. She says I shouldn’t need a list of things to talk to her about and suspects I just pulled a list of ideas off the internet, even thought I made this list on my own.
Edit: Holy cow, I was not expecting this to blow up. I appreciate the kind words and support here, it means a lot. I’d like to take this opportunity to clear up a few things and answer some of the most repeated questions as I can’t respond to every comment.
  1. My wife was upset at first because she felt my messages to her were somewhat disingenuous, but I explained that I mainly did this so I wouldn’t forget to message her and would try to have something different to talk about. She understanding, but I think I need to stop using the prompts for a while and just go from muscle memory when the reminders go off.
Yes, she does work. She gets busy like I do and gets annoyed when she sends me a message and I don’t respond for several hours, after all she can make time so I should be able to as well, especially when I find time to do other things during the day. I’m more of an asshole than she is, she’s very kind, and she does random things for me all the time, but I’m not going into that for the sake of being family friendly. We’ve been together for a long time and she feels to some degree that there has to be some intensity to the love in the relationship or one day there won’t be and that scares her, and we both have to be emotionally invested for her to be in it. She doesn’t want comfortable to become complacent.
  1. A lot of people were asking for a list, I’m not going to provide that unfortunately, but a few people suggested making an app, and I may try to do that. The work isn’t in creating the list, that takes 5 minutes of thinking, the real work is in setting up and following through on doing this. Some examples are just saying “I was thinking about you today and miss you” or sending a song saying “this reminded me of you/that thing we did that one time/that’s trip we took/that story your grandma always tells during holidays”, or a dumb joke, or a picture of her that you like to show you took candid pictures and go back and look at them from time to time.
It doesn’t really matter what you say, just that you say something more than “How’s your day going, what did you have for lunch, what’s for dinner, be home soon” and that you keep some form of consistency. If you cant come up with 10-20 ideas that you repeat, then you need to think about things you would like to hear from your SO that would make you happy and try those.
submitted by NoSoulsINC to TrueOffMyChest [link] [comments]

2023.05.30 15:04 Floodman11 Everything YOU need to know about the 2023 edition of the 24 Hours of Le Mans - Ask your questions here!

With only days separating us from the Centenary Edition of the 24 Heures du Mans, it's time again for the Le Mans Primer thread! This is the place if you’ve got any questions about the 2023 Le Mans event, no matter how small! There are no dumb questions about Le Mans!


The Race

It all comes back to Le Mans. A century ago, people asked ‘Could a car continue to drive for 24 hours straight?’, an event was made to test that theory, and a legacy in racing, motorsport, and motoring was born. The 24 Heures du Mans is the holy grail of endurance motor racing, and brings up its Centenary edition this year. In its 100 year history, the 24 Hours of Le Mans is recognised as the most prestigious and gruelling test for innovations and improvements in motorsport technology. Technologies such as disk and air brakes, streamlined bodywork, fuel, oil, and lubricant improvements, improvements to engine efficiency and longevity, even things as simple as LED lighting and windscreen wiper blades have been trialled and tested at Le Mans. The normally hot conditions in the middle of June stretch the limits of reliability, with all the teams knowing that in order to beat their competitors, they must first beat the event. A variety of different engine configurations, displacements, positions, fuels, and hybrids have won over the history of the event. So far, petrol-fuelled traditional piston engines have been the most successful. Mazda managed to win using a Wankel Rotary engine in 1991 with the Mazda 787b (oh god listen to that sound!), while Audi was the first to win with an alternate fuel, taking victory in the diesel-powered R10 TDI in 2006. 2012 ushered in the era of the Hybrid, with Audi taking victory in the R18 e-tron Quattro, featuring a flywheel hybrid engine.


The Qualifying format for Le Mans is unique to the event, and called Hyperpole. In this format, all classes are permitted to use the track in the 1 hour qualifying session on Wednesday evening. The top 6 cars from each of the 4 classes then progress to the Hyperpole session on Thursday night, which sets the top of the grid for each class. This means that each class will be segregated on the final grid.

Session Times

  • Ligier European Series Practice 1 – Sunday June 4th, 08:00 Local, 06:00 UTC, 02:00 ET, 16:00 AEST – 45 Minutes
  • Ligier European Series Qualifying 1 – Sunday June 4th, 09:15 Local, 07:15 UTC, 03:15 ET, 17:15 AEST – 20 Minutes
  • Test Day Session 1 - Sunday June 4th, 10:00 Local, 08:00 UTC, 04:00 ET, 18:00 AEST – 3 Hours
  • Ligier European Series Race - Sunday June 4th, 14:00 Local, 12:00 UTC, 08:00 ET, 22:00 AEST – 60 Minutes
  • Test Day Session 2 - Sunday June 4th, 15:30 Local, 13:30 UTC, 09:30 ET, 23:30 AEST – 3 Hours
  • Porsche Carrera Cup Practice 1 – Wednesday June 7th, 09:00 Local, 07:00 UTC, 03:00 ET, 17:00 AEST – 45 Minutes
  • Ferrari Challenge Practice 1 – Wednesday June 7th, 10:15 Local, 08:15 UTC, 04:15 ET, 18:15 AEST - 45 Minutes
  • Road To Le Mans Practice 1 – Wednesday June 7th, 11:30 Local, 09:30 UTC, 05:30 ET, 19:30 AEST – 1 Hour
  • Free Practice 1 - Wednesday June 7th, 14:00 Local, 12:00 UTC, 08:00 ET, 22:00 AEST - 3 Hours
  • Qualifying Practice - Wednesday June 7th. 19:00 Local, 17:00 UTC, 13:00 ET, Thursday 03:00 AEST - 1 Hour
  • Road To Le Mans Practice 2 – Wednesday June 7th, 20:30 Local, 18:30 UTC, 14:30 ET, Thursday 04:30 AEST - 1 Hour
  • Free Practice 2 - Wednesday June 7th, 22:00 Local, 20:00 UTC, 16:00 ET, Thursday 06:00 AEST - 2 Hours
  • Ferrari Challenge Practice 2 – Thursday June 8th, 09:00 Local, 07:00 UTC, 03:00 ET, 17:00 AEST – 45 Minutes
  • Porsche Carrera Cup Practice 2 – Thursday June 8th, 10:55 Local, 08:55 UTC, 04:55 ET, 18:55 AEST – 45 Minutes
  • Road To Le Mans Qualifying Practice – Thursday June 8th, 12:55 Local, 10:55 UTC, 06:55 UTC, 20:55 AEST – 20 Minutes x 2 Classes
  • Free Practice 3 - Thursday June 8th, 15:00 Local, 13:00 UTC, 09:00 ET, 23:00 AEST - 3 Hours
  • Road To Le Mans Race 1 - Thursday June 8th, 18:30 Local, 16:30 UTC, 12:30 ET, Friday 02:30 AEST - 55 Minutes
  • HYPERPOLE - Thursday June 8th, 20:00 Local, 18:00 UTC, 14:00 ET, Friday 04:00 AEST - 30 Minutes
  • Free Practice 4 - Thursday June 8th, 22:00 Local, 20:00 UTC, 16:00 ET, Friday 06:00 AEST - 2 Hours
  • Porsche Carrera Cup Qualifying – Friday June 9th, 09:00 Local, 07:00 UTC, 03:00 ET, 17:00 AEST – 45 Minutes
  • Ferrari Challenge Qualifying – Friday June 9th, 10:15 Local, 08:15 UTC, 04:15 ET, 18:15 AEST – 45 Minutes
  • Road To Le Mans Race 2 - Friday June 9th, 11:30 Local, 09:30 UTC, 05:30 ET, 19:30 AEST – 55 Minutes
  • Ferrari Challenge Race 1 - Saturday June 10th, 09:30 Local, 07:30 UTC, 03:30 ET, 17:30 AEST - 45 Minutes
  • Porsche Carrera Cup Race 1 - Saturday June 10th, 10:45 Local, 08:45 UTC, 04:45 ET, 18:45 AEST - 45 Minutes
  • Warm Up - Saturday June 10th, 12:00 Local, 10:00 UTC, 06:00 ET, 20:00 AEST – 15 Minutes
  • RACE START - **Saturday June 11th, 16:00 Local, 14:00 UTC, 10:00 ET, Sunday 00:00 AEST

The Track

The Circuit de la Sarthe covers 13.6 kilometres of the French country side. It combines the permanent race components of the Ford Chicanes, the pit straight, under the Dunlop Bridge and through to Tertre Rouge as well as the normal everyday roads of the Mulsanne straight through to Indianapolis and Arnage. The track has gone through many iterations over the years; originally, the cars raced into the heart of the city, turning just before the river Sarthe, before hurtling down the 8.6 kilometre straight. In 1932, the circuit removed the journey into the city, and more closely resembled the track we see today. Here’s a video of Mike Hawthorn touring the circuit with a camera and microphone attached in 1956, one year after his involvement in the Le Mans disaster. The addition of the Porsche Curves and the Ford Chicanes in 1972 added an extra dimension to the high speed, fast flowing track. In the late 80’s, the Group C prototype cars would reach over 400km/h, achieving average speeds of almost 250km/h in qualifying for the entire lap. This is an onboard of Derek Bell’s Porsche 956 in 1983, showing the ridiculous speeds on this configuration of the circuit. This configuration remained relatively unchanged right up to 1990, until FIA mandations required that for the circuit to be sanctioned, it must not have a straight longer than 2km. The 6km Mulsanne straight was cut down into three relatively equal length portions by two chicanes, giving the iteration of the circuit used today. Allan McNish takes you on an onboard lap of the 2008 circuit in this video. McNish is one of the gods of the modern prototype era, winning Le Mans 3 times; once with Porsche and twice with Audi. For a more comprehensive focus on the track, John Hindhaugh’s track walk takes you on a 30 minute exploration of the track, with in depth focus on corners like the Dunlop Esses, Tertre Rouge, Mulsanne Corner, and the Ford Chicanes.
For some modern on boards, check out the fastest ever lap in the Circuit de la Sarthe: Kamui Kobayashi's 3:14.791 in 2017 Q2, and last year’s Hyperpole lap, by Brendon Hartley, setting a 3:24.408
The Dunlop Bridge
The iconic Dunlop Bridge has been a part of the Le Mans track since 1932, making it the oldest Dunlop Bridge at any track. This part of the track requires a good launch out of the first chicane before cresting the brow of the hill, and plunging through the esses out onto the Mulsanne straight. As the LMP cars are much more maneuverable, caution must be taken passing the slower GT traffic, as Allan McNish discovered in 2011.
Tertre Rouge
Tertre Rouge is the corner that launches the cars onto the long Mulsanne straight. Maintaining momentum through this corner as it opens on exit is imperative to ensure maximum straight line speed heading down the first part of the Mulsanne. The undulation in the road makes for fantastic viewing at night, with some magic images of the Porsches throwing up sparks on the exit in 2014. Finally, this was the location of Allan Simonsen’s fatal crash in mixed conditions in the 2013 Le Mans. The Danish flags will fly at the corner in his memory.
Mulsanne Corner
After the incredibly long Mulsanne straight, the Mulsanne corner nowadays features a subtle right hand kink before the tight 90 degree turn. Here, the cars decelerate from 340 km/h down to below 100 km/h, resulting in a brilliant opportunity to overtake. Again, care must be taken overtaking slower traffic; unaware drivers have caught out faster cars attempting to pass through the kink, such as Anthony Davidson’s spectacular crash in 2012 resulting in a broken vertebra for Davidson.
Indianapolis and Arnage
The Indanapolis and Arnage complex is one of the most committed areas of the track. Hurtling down the hill from the Mulsanne Corner, the road suddenly bends to the right, a corner which only the bravest prototype drivers take flat out, followed by a beautifully cambered open left hander taken in third gear. A short sprint leads the cars into Arnage, the slowest point on the track. The tight right hander was the scene of heartbreak for Toyota in 2014 when the leading #7 broke down and had to be retired after an FIA sensor melted and shut off the electronics. Kazuki Nakajiima was unable to make it to the pits, leaving him stranded on the circuit.
The Porsche Curves
At a terrifyingly high speed, the Porsche Curves is the most committed part of the lap. Getting caught behind GT traffic in this section can mean losing phenomenal amounts of time. This was the site of Loic Duval’s horrific crash in practice for the 2014 event. Keeping momentum through the flowing right-left-right handers that lead into Maison Blanche requires 100% commitment and ultimate precision, with severe punishment for getting it wrong. The exit of the Porsche Curves underwent significant change in 2020, with additional run-off added in the middle part of the section. This has turned the treacherous and claustrophobic sweeping left-hander into an open and sweeping corner, encouraging every little bit of road to be used on the exit. What it hasn’t changed is the terrific consequences for making a mistake
The Ford Chicanes
The final chapter in the 13.6km rollercoaster that is Le Mans is the Ford Chicanes. Two tight left-right handers with massive kerbs are all that separates the driver from the finish line. Watching the cars bounce over the kerbs in beautiful slow motion is certainly something to behold, but 24 hours of mistreatment can lead to suspension and steering issues. The drivers have to be attentive until the very end, lest they throw it all away in the last minutes of the race.
The Circuit de la Sarthe requires over 85% of the lap on full throttle, with the cars accelerating from less than 100km/h to over 300km/h five times each lap. The challenge of having a car finish Le Mans is in itself, an achievement.

The Classes

The WEC consists of three classes on track at once, resulting in three separate races on track each in their own battle for 24 Hours. The classes are split based on their car type, with LMH and LMDh machinery facing off in the Hypercar class, purpose built prototypes with a spec engine and gearbox battling in LMP2, and GT machinery racing in GTE. Each class has its own set of regulations, driver requirements, and relevance for the Le Mans event.


The current top class of endurance sportscars is Hypercar, combining cars built to Le Mans Hypercar (LMH) and Le Mans Daytona (LMDh) specifications. Fighting it out will be LMH machinery from Toyota, Ferrari, Peugeot, Glickenhaus and Peugeot, while Porsche and Cadillac will be racing in LMDh cars. The LMH cars are bespoke sportscars, designed to a strict set of requirements dictating maximum power, drag coefficient, and weight, amongst other parameters, intended to limit the cost of the category. LMDh machines on the other hand are based on the future LMP2 chassis offerings, with manufacturers able to develop their own engines and bodywork, aligning with the power and drag coefficients of LMH. As part of cost-cutting, the Hypercar class is also subject to a Balance of Performance (BoP) formula, to level the playing field and ensure good racing! Hypercars are a little slower than their LMP1 predecessors, with lap times around the 3:24 mark for the Circuit de la Sarthe, which is on par with the 2014 LMP1 cars.


The second prototype class is LMP2, and provides an excellent platform for endurance racing on a budget. The LMP2 class features a spec drivetrain and gearbox, using a Gibson V8 producing 400kW, and a selection of three chassis to choose from, of which the Oreca 07 has been the chassis of choice. This ensures that the competition in the class is very tight, and often comes down to the drivers and the team’s performance instead of just having the best car. While LMP2 was capable of 3:25 lap times in years previous, part of the ‘stratification’ of classes with Hypercar’s inclusion, the LMP2 class has lost some power and had some weight added. This should put LMP2 at the heels of the LMH pace, but with laptimes outside the 3:28 mark.
LMP2 is the first class that must feature amateur rated drivers. The Amateurs must drive for a minimum of 6 hours in the car over the course of the race. This means that there's an element of strategy of when to use your amateur driver throughout the race, as the amateur driver is generally slower than the Pros. The pro drivers in this class range from up and coming talent, former F1 drivers, and some of the best sportscar pilots in the world, and with 244 cars in this class, LMP2 is sure to be a hotbed of action over the 24 hours.


GT class cars are cars that are derived from production models, and feature some of the most iconic cars and brands battling it out at the top of the field. The GTE cars are on the border of aero dependency, and can lap Le Mans in around 3:45 in a professional driver’s hands.
This year is the last year of the GTE class, and features 21 cars in a Pro-Am category, with cars from Ferrari, Porsche, Aston Martin, and Chevrolet on the grid. Despite the lack of a Pro category, the driver quality in GTE-Am is still incredibly high, with factory drivers, young stars, experienced champions and every level of experience in between on the grid, with each car featuring two Bronze or Silver rated drivers. With two amateur drivers, the strategy considerations multiply. While GTE-Am might be the class focussed on the least over the course of the race, the stories that come from this class are phenomenal, and it's well worth following.
The GT classes feature a range of different cars and configurations, and to equalise each of these against each other, the class goes through a process called 'Balance of Performance' or BoP. The organisers can adjust each individual car's weight, fuel tank, air restrictor, turbo boost pressures, and aero performance to alter performance levels to enable the different cars to race competitively. This can sometimes be contentious as every team will feel hard done by, but it is a necessary evil to having the variety of cars on the grid.

Innovative Car

Each year, there is the option for an Innovative Car, with untested or innovative technology, allowed to enter in it’s own category. In years past, this has allowed for entries from the Deltawing, or a modified LMP2 to allow amputees to race.
This year, the Innovative Car entry is a modified Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 Next-Gen NASCAR, run by Hendrick Motorsports. The Next-Gen NASCAR features modifications to allow it to run safely on the Circuit de la Sarthe, and will be driven by multiple NASCAR Cup champion Jimmie Johnson, Formula 1 World Champion Jenson Button, and Le Mans Overall Winner Mike Rockenfeller.

The Legends

Part of the allure of the Le Mans 24 Hours is the history, and the legends steeped in history over the course of its 88 previous editions. The race has had many headline battles in its history - periods of time where two or three teams went toe to toe for years, with the drivers, cars, and brands embroiled in these battles given the chance to elevate themselves above the rest, and show their prowess.
In 2019, we at /WEC, took our normal Le Mans Legends celebrations to a new level; each week, members of the community have been writing reviews on some of the closest, most fascinating finishes in Le Mans history! You can check out these reports below!
Bonus CookieMonsterFL Write-Ups
For a bite-sized history lesson on every Le Mans event, check out this post by u/JohannesMeanAd2, describing every Le Mans in a single sentence!
The early races were dominated by the Bentley company in their Speed 6, who won 5 of the first 7 races. Cars were separated into classes by their engine displacement, and the overall winner was based on distance covered. If two cars had finished with the same number of laps, the car with the smaller displacement was declared the winner. The race wasn't run during the second world war, and comparatively very little information is available on the stories of the early days of Le Mans.
After the second world war, teams such as Jaguar, Ferrari, Mercedes, and Aston Martin became the dominant teams. This era featured the legendary Jaguar D type, the Mercedes Benz 300 SLR, the Ferrari 250 Testa Rossa, and the Aston Martin DBR1. Jaguar won 5 times between 1951 and 1957, followed by an era of Ferrari dominance. Drivers such as Mike Hawthorn, Stirling Moss, Juan Manuel Fangio, and John Fitch became household names as Le Mans became a battle between German engineering and British "garagistas".
Ferrari and Ford was the story of the 60's, with Ferrari winning 6 times straight before Ford won four in a row with the GT40 Mk II, taking their first win in 1966. The story of their rivalry is legendary in it's own right - Henry Ford had almost successfully bought out the Ferrari motor company, only to be knocked back by Enzo himself at the 11th hour. In retaliation, Ford planned to hurt Ferrari where it mattered most; on the track. The Ford GT40 was so comprehensively dominant that it won the 1966 edition 21 laps ahead of the next car back - a Porsche 906/6. None of the Ferrari 330P3's finished the race. This battle gave drivers like Bruce Mclaren, Dan Gurney, and Jacky Ickx their first Le Mans victories, and propelled them to the forefront of motorsport stardom at the height of motorsport's popularity.
The 1970's saw the dawn of Porsche, with the 917k taking the brand's first win in 1970, with the same car winning the following year in the hands of Helmut Marko (yes, that Helmut Marko). It would be 5 years before Porsche would win again, with Matra taking 3 victories in the interim, each at the hands of Henri Pescarolo. Porsche returned with the 936 and the 956/962c dominating the race for the next 20 years. In fact, from 1970, Porsche won 12 times in 18 events, including 7 in a row, and they miiight have been a bit cheeky about it. Amongst these 12 wins, there were 4 for both Jacky Ickx and Derek Bell, and two for IMSA legend Hurley Haywood, as well as the first win for the Joest team in 1984. This era coincided with the introduction, and subsequent destruction of the Group C sportscar formula, widely regarded as the best Sportscar championship regulations of all time. Porsche’s dominance was eventually ended by Jaguar in the XJR-9LM, at the height of Group C’s magic. Ickx's 6 wins at this stage had earned him the nickname 'Mr Le Mans', a fitting title for one of the best drivers in the world at the time.
GT cars became a force to be reckoned with at the end of the Group C era, with classes being split into LMGTP and LMP. McLaren and Porsche had wins in GTP cars, in the F1 GTR and the 911 GT1 respectively, while Porsche, BMW and Peugeot scored LMP wins. 1997 saw the first win for Tom Kristensen, while the following year Allan McNish took his first victory, starting their journeys into the legend books of Le Mans.
The 2000’s ushered in the era of Audi, with all 13 of their wins coming since the turn of the century. GTP was disbanded due to safety issues, being replaced by GT1 and GT2. Audi picked up wins in the R8, the R10, the R15, and the R18, often dominating the might of the Peugeot 908. Audi's dominance elevated not only their drivers to legend status, but also their team managers, car designers, and race engineers. People like Reinhold Joest (team manager), Dr Wolfgang Ullrich (Audisport director), Ulrich Baretzky (engine designer), Leena Gade, Howden Haynes (race engineers) behind the wall and Allan McNish, Tom Kristensen, Rinaldo Capello, Marcel Fassler, Andre Lotterer and Benoit Treluyer have become household names in the sport not only for their wins, but their longevity and domination. Audi's dominance was only broken by a win for Bentley in 2003, running basically an Audi under a British racing green skin, and Peugeot in 2009, before being ended for good by Porsche in 2015. After both Porsche and Audi left the top class, Toyota rose to dominance, taking the last 3 Le Mans events in a row!
Between 2015 and 2017, Porsche added to their victories, now holding a record 19 overall victories at the Circuit de la Sarthe. Audi trail with 13, with Ferrari, Jaguar and Bentley holding the next three positions. Toyota finally took their first overall victory in 2018, and have won every year since. Tom Kristensen is has the most victories at Le Mans, with 9 overall victories over his career with Porsche, Audi and Bentley, inheriting the title of Mr Le Mans.

Videos and Documentaries

Entry List

Spotters Guide to be added when released!

Once again, /WEC will have a community spotters guide thanks to the efforts of Ziombel_444! The planned release date is the 6th of June, so keep your eyes peeled for that!

Check out Ziombel_444's other work at Spotters.Guide, and support this great effort!

Endurance Chat

/WEC's podcast, Endurance Chat, will have four episodes in the lead up to Le Mans, as well as a Pre-Pre-Race show in the hours before the event. Watch this space for updates!
  • Endurance Chat S8E11 – The Centenary 24 Hours of Le Mans Preview - History, context, and insight into this year’s edition of the Le Mans 24 Hours
  • Endurance Chat S8E12 - The 2023 Le Mans 24 Hour Hypercar Class Guide – COMING SOON
  • Endurance Chat S8E13 - The 2023 Le Mans 24 Hour LMP2 Class Guide – COMING SOON
  • Endurance Chat S8E14 – The 2023 Le Mans 24 Hour LMGTE-Am Class Guide – COMING SOON
In addition, Endurance Chat made a series of features detailing the history of sportscars in the late 60’s and early 70’s, at the transition point of GT and Prototype machinery. The series details some of the machinery, events, and drivers in one of the fastest and most dangerous periods in racing history. You can find a playlist to these features here!

Streaming and Television

In the past, the FIAWEC Broadcast has started from Qualifying Practice. We are awaiting confirmation if that is the case this year – Streams for non-FIAWEC sessions after that point will be subject to the organisers of those series broadcasting those sessions.

  • Official stream OUTSIDE US ONLY - The Le Mans package gives you access to all WEC sessions (Qualifying, Warm Up and the Race) with a choice of on boards, cross platform compatibility, and up to 5 devices connected at once. Additionally, replays of the event are free after the event. Official comms headed by Martin Haven, Anthony Davidson, and Graham Goodwin, who in my personal opinion properly nail the tone of the event. Has been known to get overloaded and crash however
  • Eurosport will likely be broadcasting the event in a variety of locales throughout Europe. This will be updated when confirmed
  • Radio Le Mans will be streaming live radio for every session
For American audiences, unfortunately the Official stream is geoblocked for your area. Information on how to watch will be updated when confirmed
  • [Official TV Broadcast distribution](COMING SOON) Find out how to watch in your region!
Any further updates on TV or Streaming distribution will be added as they are released!

Social Media

If you're looking for more interaction, you can find most of the teams, drivers and commentators on Twitter, giving you instant interaction with those in the midst of the event.

If someone wants to make a twitter list for the teams/driveetc for this year, that would be greatly appreciated!

Live timing

Be sure to join the discord for alternate timing solutions!

Get Involved!

By far the most fun you can have watching an endurance race is watching it with the official /WEC Discord! It's a lot of fun and a really great atmosphere to watch the race in!
If you want to have a go at picking who you think will be winning in each class, jump into mwclarkson's Fantasy Endurance Contest! It's free to enter, and if you win, you'll get the satisfaction and achievement of being right!
If there's anything you'd like us to add, or need clarification on, please comment below and we'll add it in!`
submitted by Floodman11 to wec [link] [comments]

2023.05.30 06:06 RyuuAraragi Kevin takes a joyride

I was listening to Reddit stories on YouTube, wondered about whether or not I had a story to share, and remembered this story of my old coworker.
For a bit of backstory: I manage a small restaurant under a larger company. Sometime in early 2022, one of my coworkers receives a company car, nearly crashes it into another car on the way from the dealership to the restaurant, and gets traumatized by the absolute chewing out he receives from the older lady he almost hit. It goes without saying that he currently avoids driving like the plague. So now, we just have a car sitting in our tiny parking lot. It's a shame, since it was a pretty nice looking car, a Hyundai Elantra I believe.
Around this time, I'm getting into basic car maintenance, such as changing oil, headlights, coolant, and spark plugs. Consequently, I also own one of those little bluetooth code readers that connect to my phone to tell me if there's something wrong with my vehicle.
Now to introduce the star of the story, Kevin. He describes himself as "street smart, not book smart." He's a nice guy to a fault, but lacks a great deal of common sense as it will be apparent later. Kevin longs to own and drive a car of his own, but has yet to make the steps towards getting his license. At this point, he's failed the written exam a couple times and has not progressed on to the actual road test. I give him rides from time to time, such as when he misses his bus.
After the whole debacle with the car, I decide that it'd be essential to install a rearview camera so that anyone driving it would at least feel safer doing so. I've done the installation job before on my own car, so how hard could it be? I buy an okay looking rearview camera kit off Amazon, wait a couple days for it to come in, and quick Google search, and I'm quickly removing panels and wiring the camera to the company car's brake lights in the restaurant's parking lot after work. While I'm at it, I figure that I should check this car for any trouble codes. It's a used car, so it's probably got some issues on it, right? I pop in my code reader into the car and wait for it to spit out data. I finish the camera job and check my phone for any issues. Two trouble codes catch my eye: low battery voltage and a misfiring cylinder. Cool, I can just drop by the nearest auto shop to have the battery recharged and grab a spark plug for the cylinder. Two birds with one stone, easy.
Kevin, done with the restaurant closing duties, steps out to check out what I'm doing. I explain that I'm just installing a rearview camera for the car and making sure it's running properly. I keep in mind that Kevin also wants to own his own car one day, so I go into more detail into car maintenance, quickly explaining about batteries and spark plugs. I give him a little demo of how the rearview camera works. He asks me if he could sit in the driver's seat, and I oblige.
"Man, this car is NICE! I want a car like this," Kevin says. He plays around with the controls on the dash for a little bit. "Can I take it for a little drive?"
I immediately shut this idea down. "Kevin, you don't even have your license. What makes you think you can drive it?" I scold him.
"I can drive," he shoots back. "I've seen you drive before. I think I can do it."
You just asked me the about dashboard controls. As if.
We get out of the car and we get ready to go home. I have the next two days off and I want to spend them relaxing. "Kevin, the car has faulty spark plugs and a dying battery. Under no circumstances, do NOT touch the car while I'm gone. I honestly this this car is unsafe." I repeat this several times before we go home. Satisfied by his confirmations, I throw the keys in the register head home. I feel like you could already tell where this is going.
Fast forward a couple days. I'm just chilling at home and aimlessly reading my emails. My parents borrow my car to get groceries. It's quiet, and I'm at peace. Until Kevin FaceTimes me. Usually, when I get a call from my staff, it's a question about food or where certain items are in the restaurant. It's not often that it's an emergency. I sigh and pick up the phone.
Immediately I see Kevin sitting in the driver's seat of a car. Before he could even say anything, I blurt out, "Kevin, are you in the company car right now?" A short pause and he purses his lips like he's eaten something really sour. "Kevin, I'm not going to ask you again. Are you in the company car right now?" More sternly this time.
Dodging my question, all he can manage to get out is "I messed up..."
One of my kitchen guys told Kevin that we're out of cabbage. Since there's a supermarket about a 10 minute walk away, he decides to go there during his break. He considers walking but realizes that bringing back cabbage would be heavy, so Kevin concludes that he should take the company car there since it would cut his time in two and it'd be more comfortable. Note, we also have a staff member who can drive. Apparently he didn't think about it at the time. He thinks, instead, about how this will get him points for being able to solve a problem at the restaurant without me being around.
Kevin grabbed the keys from the register, turns on the car, and drives off. He makes it about two blocks before the engine starts to sputter and subsequently dies due to the misfiring cylinder. To his credit, he manages to maneuver the car to the curb and turn on his hazards. He immediately calls me right after.
"Kevin, I thought I made myself very clear that the car was off limits," I said slowly. He proceeds to mimic a Mickey Mouse laugh and say, "I made a littly f*cky wucky."
Head in my hands, I sigh again. "Kevin, I have no way of getting to you. You're gonna have to call around to see if anyone can help you out." We hang up the phone and I make some phone calls of my own. The first phone call went to the senior manager (SM for short). It's his day off as well, but it can't be helped.
"What's up?" The SM seems to be spending time with his family, since I hear his kid laughing in the background.
"Kevin apparently took the company car to go shopping for ingredients, the car broke down, and now he's stuck," I explained.
There was a long pause. "What the f*ck? Is he dumb? I thought he didn't even have his license."
"I already told him that he's not to touch the car under any circumstances, and on top of that the car is in need of repairs," I continued.
The SM tells me to call the vice president (VP), since he's working today and he's in the area. Honestly, I don't want to have to escalate this issue that far, but I have no choice. I know that the VP has so much on his plate already, but I give him a call regardless. The call goes more or less the same as with the SM, but the VP says that he's on the way. He's about an hour away, however. God dammit.
In the meantime, I call my friends in the area, explain the situation, and ask them if they could do me a favor and save Kevin. I'm not really sure if it's actually the spark plug, but I think they'd at least be able to give him some extra support while the VP is on the way. Nobody's able to help out, so I give Kevin a follow-up call. Keep in mind it's been half an hour since he called.
"Hey Kevin, did you get into contact with anyone yet?" I ask.
"No, not yet," he responds.
"Uhh, any reason why?"
A long pause.
Fed up, I strongly recommend he call the VP to tell him what he did. We hang up again and I go straight into bed and nap, just completely drained from the entire interaction. I'll follow up later.
I wake up from my nap and call the VP to find out what ended up happening. The VP caught up with Kevin and started up the car with no issues. The VP makes Kevin sit in the passenger's seat and they drive back to the restaurant in awkward silence. He has no words for Kevin, and instead tasks SM and I with scolding him about it. Fair enough.
The next time SM, Kevin, and I are all working together is in a weeks' time. SM and I agree to mess with him a little bit. I tell Kevin that SM wants to have a meeting about what happened. I hype this up throughout the week, dropping hints such as "ooh Kevin, you're gonna get it!" A week passes by in the blink of an eye, but it probably feels like a drawn out hell for Kevin. We let him fester and reflect about his actions. The three of us sit down at a table before the restaurant opens and I open my mouth.
"Kevin, never do that again."
I end the meeting there. Kevin, who's as white as a sheet, has the color return to his face and appear to have a huge weight fall off his shoulders. "Is that it?" He shyly asks. I confirm that's it. He laughs in relief, since he believes he'd be fired. I add that he's young and bound to make really dumb, stupid mistakes. If I tell him something, he really needs to listen. On top of that, since he's working for a business, his actions, noticed or unnoticed, are representative of the business as a whole. "And Kevin, for the love of all that is good, get your license."
TL;DR Kevin drives a car in need of repairs to the store without his license and it breaks down en route. He calls me for help, but I send him my boss' boss to him. We make him think for a week that he'd be violently punished for his actions, but we gave him a life lesson instead.
submitted by RyuuAraragi to StoriesAboutKevin [link] [comments]

2023.05.30 03:39 Accomplished_Monk168 Dealership Blew My Tranny

Dealership Blew My Tranny
I brought my girl in for general 60k fluid swap(debated I know) at a Toyota certified dealership last month and long story short they blew my tranny. Drove out of the lot after the service and back to the dealership within 4 miles because transmission was slipping and grinding. They told me they initially overfilled by a half quart and that they would adjust the fluids. The next day/second time I left the shop it still had a subtle slipping so I brought it back and they found they drained too much fluid. Brought back a 3rd time and they admitted it blew my torque converter and they would be putting in a “new” (Toyota certified remanufactured w/ 12k mile/1yr warranty) transmission. I asked for a brand new one and they claimed that Toyota is only allotting brand new transmissions for new vehicles and the only option was a reman. Picked it up 2 weeks later after they installed the reman and now there is an intermittent 2 second delay goin from reverse to drive. Brought it back and they checked prndl switch(was normal) and determined the reman transmission was faulty and they are putting in ANOTHER one under warranty. My questions are:
  1. Can a half quart overfill actually cause catastrophic failure in my transmission?
  2. Is Toyota really only offering reman transmissions? Are reman actually good quality??
  3. What’s a reasonable expectation out of the dealership at this point? I essentially brought my perfect car in to be mutilated. I’m going on 1 month without my car and feel like it will never be the same. I initially paid the $650 for the fluid swap(oil, transmission, transfer case, ect) and feel at bare minimum I shouldn’t be held responsible for that charge given the circumstances. Toyota corporate has been involved since day one and are waiting to hear the outcome. Any other suggestions on how I can cover my butt if issues arise in the future? I’m so frustrated, this is my absolute dream car. Ya’ll know. Pic of the first day I picked her up. 🙃
submitted by Accomplished_Monk168 to 4Runner [link] [comments]

2023.05.29 22:55 Soft-Cryptographer-1 Strange drain plug

Strange drain plug
I'm helping my dear mother change her oil, and this guy was screwed into the oil drain plug. I don't believe I've seen one with this seemingly permanently attached conical plastic washer. It doesn't seem to he compatible with the typical copper washer one would replace. There wasn't one on when I removed it. Any ideas?
submitted by Soft-Cryptographer-1 to Porsche_Cayman [link] [comments]

2023.05.29 20:50 Novemberx123 How much would this cost?

I have a 2016 Honda fit. It’s at 170k. I got it at 110k. I doordash in it. I’ve only been doing oil changes, and replacing tires as of now but I’m going to maintain it better from now on.
These are the 6 things I’m going to do
  1. Inspect/adjust drive belts
  2. Flush break fluid (check break wear)
  3. Chance serpatine belt (pull tensioner and re-grease bearing if dry, replace if bad)
  4. Drain/fill CVT Transmission fluid
  5. Coolant flush
  6. Change spark plugs
I’ve heard most of this can be DIY, I’m not mechanical inclined but if it would save money..and I don’t have a lot, then I would definitely learn it but I’d like to just find the most affordable way to go about this. Does anyone know what the normal price would be for all this work?
submitted by Novemberx123 to AskMechanics [link] [comments]